Once FWH's head was done to my satisfaction, it was time to proceed to sculpting the rest of his bust. The general chest shape was done in a single session and took only 1 hour. I decided to sculpt the bust onto its support, a turned wooden shape from the local hardware store. Sculpting the chest onto this spindle provided good support for the finished product. Also, having this spindle implanted in the bust allows me to sit it on top of an upside down Tim Horton's coffee cup with a "X" cut in the bottom for photography and simple viewing.
Once I was happy with the chest shape, the head was attached and the upper arms added. I then proceeded to flesh out the detail of his uniform tunic including the basic shapes of the collar and pockets.
Its very important when sculpting uniforms not to overdo the depth of creases and folds as these will look even more exaggerated when paint is applied. Testing the sculpture by taking photos of it is one way of getting a fresh look. One finds that when looking at the model constantly, one becomes blind to obvious imperfections that will sometimes be glaringly obvious in a photograph. Another useful trick is to look at the model in the mirror. The reversal of the image offsets the effects of familiarity that come with looking at the model for hours on end. Viewing in a mirror allows previously unseen flaws to jump out at the sculptor.
Once the bust was sculpted, it was time to add the uniform detail - and this is the part I love. I look forward to detail work so much I have to guard against rushing the completion of the basic form so I can get to the detail stage. I love sculpting medals, buttons, lace etc. In this case, I decided to add the details in Magic Sculpt epoxy putty as I was not sufficiently comfortable that Sculpey firm had ability to take and hold detail (this was my first use of this material). Based on subsequent experience, I need not have worried.
I chose not to sculpt the national symbol (i.e. breast eagle and swastika) or the collar detail (litzen) as in this scale the risk is that they are too thick. Given this was to be a one of a kind original, there was no need to sculpt on detail that a casting would need to enable other painters to colour.
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| Infantry Major's epaulettes |
I was a little worried about the epaulettes though. As can be seen by the photo of the actual items to the left, an German infantry Major's epaulettes are a major (no pun) pain to sculpt. I did the basic epaulette shape and cooked the model. Then I added a layer of putty, cut the outside shape to roughly approximate the lace laying on the epaulette, and then scored in the cord detail with a # 11 blade. It actually came out quite well -- to my surprise. I added buttons and was done this challenge.
Heinz was a heavily decorated officer in both world wars.
He earned the following major decorations:
- Iron Cross 2nd Class - 1917
- Wounded badge in black - 1918
- Wounded badge in silver - 1918
- Iron Cross 1st Class - 1919
- V Corps badge
- Silesian Eagle
- Merit badge of II Marine Brigade Ehrhardt
- Clasp Iron Cross 1st Class clasp - 1941
- Clasp Iron Cross 2nd Class clasp - 1941
- Infantry Assault Badge in silver - 1941
- Wehrmacht 4 year service medal
I applied these either as individual medals and decorations or as ribbons on the medal bar. My expert contacts at a militaria website called the "Gentlemen's Military Interest Club" ( http://gmic.co.uk) were very helpful with advising me on the placement and appropriate order of the various decorations. Here's what I came up with:
With that last minute revision, the bust was ready for painting.
